Chevron Messenger Bag

My oldest left this morning for college.  She and her daddy packed up the van, threw her bike on the back and off they went to her new adventure.  She is thrilled and excited.

This summer she requested a new book bag for college.  I made her last book bag, not only did she love it, it lasted five years of hard use. Naturally she wanted another one just like it.  This time instead of solid color (olive green canvas) she wanted a fun print.  

I love this chevron print.  It's youthful and current.  Perfect for a freshman on her own for the first time.  The fabric is also perfect because it's outdoor fabric with an easy care coating so she should just be able to clean it up with a damp cloth.

I even made a special water bottle pocket to fit her water bottle, which she left behind at home, of course.  Good thing it will fit just about any water bottle. 

Construction details:  It's 16x12 with pockets all over the place and a padded pocket inside for her computer.  The base has six large purse feet to keep it off the classroom floor.  It also has a plastic piece in the bottom so the bottom won't sag when it's fully loaded.

You can see the strap construction here and in the previous photo.  I found these awesome swivel clips and matching D rings and a slide so she could have an easily adjustable strap.  Who knows how she'll need to carry it?  Easy versatility is always best.

Here's a close up of the front 6" pocket.  It's got a zipper right at the upper edge to help keep things inside and still be easy access.  The back of the bag has a similar pocket that's 16"x10" with a zipper all the way across. There are also about eight pen pockets on this bag in various places.

The inside of the bag has even more pockets with some big enough for paperwork and a few smaller ones as well.  There at the bottom of the photo is the computer pocket.  We had a padded computer envelope that didn't quite fit her computer.  I cut it apart and used it to pad the front and back of the pocket.  for the sides and bottom I used a thin, dense upholstery foam doubled up.  It's closed with a simple Velcro tab.

She loves the bag and I am glad I got it done just in time for her to take it with her.  Now I just have to get the rest of the sewing she left for me done.  Between the three girls, I have a huge stack of sewing projects to do.  Some are done and I'll show off those soon (middle girl's first day of school outfit is completely home sewn!)  There's still a huge pile to get to, though.  I told my oldest I would have to send monthly care packages with her other projects in them.  The first one will also have all the stuff she forgot to take with her.  Since one of those things is her jacket, I think I had better get something done for a box soon.

PS:  My son wants a bag just like it (minus the cute, girly chevrons), so I'll be posting a detailed tutorial on how to make one yourself in a month or so.  It's got a lot a steps, but is pretty doable.  Since everything is rectangles, you don't even need a pattern to make it.

Gathering Fabric the Easy Way

I know I just posted yesterday and here I am with another post.  Crazy, huh?  I just wanted to share the absolute easiest method ever for gathering fabric.  Remember yesterday's dress?  There is four yards of fabric in the ruffle.   It's way too much to handle with the traditional basting stitch.   That's where the couching method comes in.

Instead of sewing a basting stitch (or a pair of basting stitches) you adjust your machine to a wide zig zag stitch.   Grab a roll of lightweight fishing line and tie a big honking knot in the end.  I mean big knot.  If that pulls out, you basically have to start over. Lay your fabric out on the machine getting ready to sew.  Now slip the fishing line under the machine foot, lining it up along the seam line and letting the knot lay several inches off the back of the fabric.    Now keep the fishing line centered in the foot so the line is centered under the zig zag stitch.   (As shown in the above photo.) Sew the full length of the fabric.   Cut the fishing line so you have about 6-12" of excess line at the end.

Here's what it looks like sewn.    Now pull the knot end out a few inches, just a few though.   Go back to the other end and pull on the fishing line while sliding the fabric the opposite way.   Your fabric will gather faster and easier than it ever has before.   It's awesome and you will always keep fishing line around your sewing machine from here on out.  

If you are planning on making the ruffle bag or the  fat quarter ruffle bag couching over fishing line will save your sanity.  If you are sewing tulle skirts for little girl dresses, this will save you from swearing like a sailor (also, when sewing tulle use a round nose needle intended for knits.  I swear it makes a huge difference.)

And now you can actually have fun gathering fabric.  Good luck with your sewing.   

Chevron Clutch--the prototype

I haven't been posting as much lately because it seems that just when I'm going to finish a project something comes up.  I have about five things I want to post on my blog that I can't post because I haven't managed to do those finishing details yet.   We've found and painted a light for the new sitting room.  We've built a 6' DVD case that holds (almost) everything including Wii games.  We even punched through the wall in our family room to put in a component shelf under the TV so we could finally get rid of (what remained of) the entertainment center.  I love all the projects but we've managed to just live with them 95% done.   That is the fun of having a blog.  It makes me finish things I would otherwise just live with.

Just for fun though, I'm going to show you an in progress project.  I'm working on the pattern for a large clutch.  The prototype looks promising but there's a few things I'll be changing up in the final version.

I like the chevrons.  I like the size, 12"x6".  I even like the button.  I'm not too happy with the fabric, but it was free, so I'm not sweating that.  The thing that bugs me the most is the way the flap does not lay down smoothly on the sides.  That will have to be worked with.

The back side has two more chevron stripes.  I think the stripes are cute and I do like the way the fabric is fraying.  It made it super easy to sew the stripes on, as well, so bonus!


I do love the interior of this clutch.  The great big zipper pocket was easy to put in.  I have just ID/credit/membership card pockets on the other side.  Of course, these days I'm not sure if 9 pockets is enough.   Between the library card, the zoo card, the museum card, the grocery store loyalty cards, the clothing store loyalty cards. . . there may actually not be any space left for my driver's licence or debit card.  hey! This clutch saves money!  Obviously I can't drive anywhere or spend money when using it.   It's the budget clutch!

I'm going to work up a final version of this one soon.  Hopefully I can figure out how to make digital patterns as well.   From the numbers on my blog, an Etsy store with just the ruffle bag patterns in it would do pretty well.  I'd put other stuff in it too, of course.  Two products would just look silly.

Small Camera Bag Hack

I have an SLR camera with a very large bag that holds most of my equipment.  It's a backpack style, which is nice to carry because I can bend over and lean while wearing it without worrying that the bag is going to swing around and whack somebody.  As long as I wear both straps I don't whack people, I mean.  Don't ask me what happens when wearing just one strap.  It's not pretty.

The problem is that it's a very big bag that is very heavy.  This summer was very busy with lots of trips.  The full size bag would be way more equipment than I needed and I knew I couldn't hike 26 miles in it.  I needed a camera bag that would carry just the camera and one lens.  Ideally, I would have had a Crumpler sling bag, but since I didn't want to spend $50, I was out of luck.  

So I made my own.

I started with a $3.99 mini backpack purse from Salvation Army.  It had the right size main compartment and a little zipper pocket on the front for an extra battery, flash cards, and ID.  The heavy duty nylon canvas would put up with the abuse of a hand cart trek, a trip to the beach, and all around travel.  It's not the prettiest, but hey, you can find a prettier one for yours.

The grey block in the picture is the secret to this project:  high density foam.  Regular foam probably isn't going to do it.  You need the the super good stuff.  This is the product they use to protect lots of delicate equipment and my husband just happened to have a little bit in storage.

I sat the bag on the foam and traced around the base with a pen.  This was a little bigger than the foam needed to be, so I cut it just a bit smaller and rounded off the corners.  I made two of these.   Then I traced around the lens that I wanted to use in the bag.  This time I cut the foam out a little larger than what I traced.   In one block, I cut the circle all the way through.  In the second block I cut it only halfway down.  That was a pain, and it's not pretty, but it works.

I made sure the two foam blocks lined up at the lens hole.  Then I shoved them into the bag.  The camera fits in the bag lens down.  Like this:

On the sides, I cut spare blocks to fit around the body of the camera.  It would be best if one were to glue the foam together into the proper shape.  I'm lazy and have no clue what kind of glue to use, so my foam is still in pieces.  Nevertheless, this bag has been perfect.  I took this with me on my 26 mile hand cart trek.  My camera came through with nary a scratch or bump even after a torrential downpour and ridiculous amounts of dust.   It went to the beach with no problems as well.  Not that I went around dropping the bag in the surf, but it did well in the salty, humid air.  

If I were to upgrade this, I would probably try to find a leather bag.  Then I'd actually glue the foam and hopefully cover the whole foam block section in a nice printed fabric for contrast and fun.  Otherwise it's been great.  Today, my camera goes with me to a cross country meet.  I love taking the lighter bag.  My back thanks me too.

Adding to The Easiest Bag

Remember The Easiest Bag You've Ever Made from last week?  Yeah, it was a bit boring, but the point was how simple the bag was.  You can make something cute with cute fabric and whip out a bag in no time.  However, if you want you can dress it up like this:

 Isn't it cute?   I love the bird.  I used a bird image from a royalty free source, re-sized it to about 6x6" in a photo editing program, printed it out, and traced it onto pattern fabric.  (Have you bought your five yards yet? I use this stuff all the time.)

Then I cut out my bird from a cute print and a stabilizer fabric.  I actually used my pattern tracing fabric, but this is the perfect use for fusible webbing if you happen to have some.   Notice which direction the bird faces.   The bottom of the bag is the cut side.  Since you're starting with the 31" square from the Easiest Bag pattern, you need to fold the fabric in half and press it.  That pressing line is the top of the bag.   Fold it in half the other way and press and that is the side of the bag.  Your front is two inches in from the fold and two and a half from the cut.  Place your applique on the front of the bag in a spot that looks good to you.  

 You can sew the applique down with a simple zig zag stitch.  If your machine has a blanket stitch that makes a nice stitch on appliques. 

 Now cut out a strip of fabric 31" wide by 5"tall.  Place it along the width of the bag, lining up the bottom edge of the print strip with the bottom edge of the bag.   Baste it down.  Sew a ribbon over the raw edge of the print. 

 Cut out another piece of fabric 13.5x31".   Sew a folded hem along one long edge. 

 Place on the other end of the bag fabric so the long raw edge lines up with the raw edge of the bag and the hemmed edge points toward the center.   This is your interior pockets.  I decided to have two full size pockets on the wide sides of the bag, so I sewed down from the hemmed edge to the bottom 2.5" from each of the raw sides and then 10.5" from that stitching.   I used the ends as pockets as well.  The side with the seam got pencil pockets.  You'll notice I sewed across the pockets about 6" down so I didn't lose pencils in the bottom of the bag.   For the other narrow pocket I also sewed 6" down making it perfect for a cell phone, sunglasses, or a wallet. 

From this point just follow the construction directions for The Easiest Bag.  And there you go!   These extra additions should only add about 30-45 minutes to your bag.  If you work fast, you could have a new bag in under an hour.   If you want to start with a 30" square you could make two bags from one yard of 60" wide canvas.  With 27" squares you could make two bags from 3/4 of a yard of 54" wide fabric.   You will have to adjust the pocket seams on the inside if you change the dimensions of the bag.   That's easy to do, however, and wouldn't these make great teacher gifts? 

Post a link if you make the bag!  Thanks!

The Easiest Bag You've Ever Made

This bag takes three pattern pieces and about 30 minutes of your time.  That's it.   It's easy enough a beginner can make it.   It may look a bit boring, but it's perfect as a library book bag or a grocery tote.   It's self lining so it's heavy duty and super easy.  Next week I'm going to show you how to add some details to this pattern.   It's going to get some interior pockets (of course) and some fun on the outside of the bag as well.  

 Start with one large square of fabric.  Mine measures 31"x31".  That's my bag.  The handles are 3.5"x26".   Feel free to make your handles longer.   This pattern works with any size bag, so go ahead and make yours smaller or larger if you wish. 

 Fold the fabric square in half and sew the three sides.  Leave a 4" gap on the long side to turn the bag.  Keep that gap near one end or the other, not in the middle.

 Now we're going to box the corners.   Fold your corners so the seams meet in the middle.   Measure 4" across and draw a line with a pencil. 

 Sew over your pencil line.

 Turn your bag right side out.   Now you have a big ol' rectangle with funny corners. 

 Take it and stuff one half down into the other half.  Make sure to match the base in the seam and corners. 

 See the inside of the bag?  You'll notice that my opening I used to turn the bag is on the inside.   It just makes it nicer if my hand sewing is a bit imperfect. 

Sew that gap closed by hand.  Press the bag.  You want a good crisp edge at the top.  You can press the sides and create a nice crisp line from base to top as well. 

For the handles, fold them in half lengthwise and sew the side seam.  Turn the handles and press flat.   Turn in the raw edges on the ends of the handles by about 1/4".   Position at the top and sew down.  Mine are spaced two inches in from the corners or about 4" from the side seam. 

That's it.  30 minutes to a basic bag.  It's ready for the grocery store or the library.

From Pattern To Purse: Phase Two, Creating the Pattern

(Not the bag I'm describing here, but I thought it would be nice to have something pretty to start the post.)

Here's the bag I'm making a pattern for:

 Before you start it would be helpful to pull out your sketch and graph paper drafts of your purse design.  Keep them with you to refer back to often as you create the pattern.

Last week we left off with a list of all the pattern pieces I would need to make my slouch bag.  As a refresher, I'm going to be making these pieces:

For the slouch bag we need:
2 large rectangles for the outside
1 oval base
2 straps for the sides (measuring longer so we can attach the D rings)
1 center strap finished measurement about 7 1/2"
1 center strap that will wrap from the bottom back of the bag all the way around to the front
1 handle, 20-24"  (gotta ask the girl what she wants)
3 D rings
1 clip or metal closure of some kind

For the lining:
2 large rectangles
2 zipper pouch pieces
1 pocket piece
1 12" zipper

You need to evaluate your graph paper sketches the same way.To figure dimensions we'll add 1/2" to each side for seam allowance.  Most clothing patterns have 5/8" seam allowances but I like 1/2" on the bag patterns I make because I like lazy math.   With a seam allowance all the way around the rectangle of my bag will be 1" longer and 1" wider than the finished measurement, or 16"x13".   I can draw out a rectangle on my pattern fabric for that.   Then I mark how many of what fabrics I need to cut with that piece.   Usually you need a front and back out of your outside fabric, 2 lining pieces, and 2 interfacing pieces.   Write all that down on the new pattern piece itself just like a commercial pattern has those things listed on the pattern.  When you write it down, you don't forget what needs to be done so you don't have to redo your work.

The accent straps up the side are easy to figure because they go the full height of the bag, or 15".   I'll need 1/2" at the bottom for seam allowance and I want an 1" at the top to sew the D ring in.   All together that means the strap will be 2 1/2"x16 1/2".   Does your bag have accent pieces like this?  Stop and figure out how much fabric you need for them.  If you are sewing in D rings, you can always have the piece be a little longer than you think you need, just in case.   If you are sewing patch pockets on the front, you will probably only want a 1/4" seam allowance around three sides and 1/2" to an 1" at the top edge.   Pockets sewn into the seams will need the same seam allowance you've added everywhere else.   If you've sewn a bag that's similar to the one you're making now, look at that pattern for pattern ideas.   How did that pattern work?  What pieces did it use and did it work for you?

For the strips that go around the middle of the bag, I'll need to slightly more complicated math.  Just slightly, though.   The strip on the front will have 1/2" seam at the bottom and add another 1" to sew in the swivel clip assembly.  Since I want it to reach half way up the front of the bag, that means the finished measurement is 7.5".  So the pattern piece is 2 1/2"x 9".  (finished measurement+bottom seam allowance+top seam allowance.)

For the wrap around strip, I want it to have it start at the bottom of the back side.  It will reach all the way up the back (15") and then wrap around the front to attach to the clip (7.5").  I'll need 1.5" for the seam allowance. The clip is 3" (including D ring).  I want the strap about 3" shorter than it would need to be to reach around.  So the math is 15+7.5+1.5-3-3=18.   Now, the strap will be seen from both sides, so I'll want two pieces sewn together for this one.

Here's those four pieces all drafted out.  Notice I've got my quilt cutting mat underneath my pattern fabric.  The grid shows through quite well and keeps my corners square and my lines straight.  I do use my quilt ruler to draw the lines so I can measure as a mark and be sure I'm getting perfectly straight lines.  

For my bottom piece, I want an oval.  I like the softness the round shape will give to the bag and it will be easy to sew on this bag that has no separate side pieces.  To start I'm going to draw a guide for the oval shape.  It will mark the widest and longest points of the oval.  For this bag I want a finished measurement of 4"x11".  This will make the bottom actually smaller than the width of the bag.  This will soften the lines of the bottom of the bag.   It will also make drawing the oval easier because I'm gathering fabric into it.  I don't have to worry about making the bottom the same circumference as the bottom of the bag.   The guide will measure 5"x12" to allow for seams.

Next, I will sketch in the curve on one quarter of the guide.  I just lightly work with my pencil until I get a curve that satisfies me.  I'll need to be careful to get the ends nicely rounded so the oval doesn't resemble a football.  When I'm happy with it, I darken the line I like best so it stands out from the rest.

Next I mountain fold my pattern fabric.  (origami term.  Fold the wrong sides together here so the pencil marks are on the outside not the inside of the fold.)  Then I trace the line.

Mountain fold the fabric in half the other way and trace the half oval.

Open it up and I should have a full oval on the front of my pattern fabric.

Now mark on your bottom piece what fabric needs to be cut with this pattern piece.  For the bottom we need one from the lining, one from the fabric, and one interfacing.

There's a lot of calculation in pattern making.  You need to know how much fabric it takes to do what you want.  Use your rulers and tape measures to get a feel for size and shape.  Work with the numbers and if you need to, cut a sample piece out of cheap fabric to see if it will do what you want it to do.  Adjust your pattern as needed to make everything work.  It's always best to start with something simple, like a rectangular bag, so you can get a handle on the basics before you jump into the more complicated stuff, like curves and gathering.

For the lining I already know I'm going to have two pieces the same size as the outside of the bag and that is marked on the pattern piece.  Now I need to calculate and cut my pocket pieces.   I want pockets on one side of the lining and I want it to reach halfway up the bag so the finished measurement is 12"x7.5".   Add in the seam allowance and that makes the piece 13"x8.5.    For the center pocket I want it to be the same width as the bag and reach about halfway up, so I'm going to cut it the same size as my side pockets, 13x8.5.

I've decided on a 24" handle that will be 1.5" wide (for now.  I can change my mind on this at any time.  The handle will be sewn last.)  I like two piece handles rather than one piece that's folded in half.  I also use 1/4" seams on my handles because I'm too lazy to trim seam allowances. That means I'll want two long rectangles measuring 25"x2".

Just so you know, most of the time when I'm making a purse pattern I do not make all the pattern pieces.  I make the ones that curve or are more complicated, but the basic rectangles just get listed in my directions for the bag so I know what to cut.  Since I use my quilt cutting tools, I really don't need the pattern pieces.   You can do this as well, but be sure to fully document exactly what pieces you need and what size they should be.  You can mark this in a set of directions that you keep with the other pattern pieces.  I'm drawing out most of my rectangles partly because there are so many of them and partly to demonstrate the process of creating the pattern. 

I've shown you how I go about creating a pattern.  Some patterns will have lots of pieces, some will have very few.  It's all in the design of the bag.  Don't be afraid to look at other patterns to get a feel for how the pieces are shaped and how the bag is constructed.   If you've got an old bag you don't mind destroying, cut it apart so you can see what the pieces look like flat.  Look for construction details that tell you how the bag was put together and why the pieces are shaped the way they are.   Next time you are out shopping, take a detour into the bag section.  Inspect the bags.  Flatten them out.  Count the pieces that were used to make it.  See if you can figure out how they added a particular detail you like.  Look for accents and shapes that appeal to you that you can put into your bags. 

Have fun with this.   Don't stress over the pattern because next week we will get to tweak and perfect as we make the mock up bag.   Have a good week and see you next Friday for part three.   (Or you can show back up all week to read my other posts.  It's ok.  I love visitors.)

From Pattern to Purse: Phase One, Sketching and Graphing

 You've seen my purses I'm sure.  The ruffle bag.  The fat quarter ruffle bag.  You may have seen some of my other purses.   I know that I don't post down loadable PDF patterns like a lot of other crafters do, and many of you probably haven't tried making my purses because of that.  Honestly,  there's a lot of reasons I don't do printable patterns, but mostly it's because I think anybody can create a purse pattern.  If you can dream it up, you can make a pattern for it.  Purse patterns are much simpler than clothing patterns.  Most of the time a purse is a modified rectangle or a simple oval.  You just make changes to a basic shape to get what you want.  

Have you ever looked at a purse and thought "that is almost what I want, but it should have  . . . ."  Ever dreamed up the perfect bag and couldn't find a bag or bag pattern anywhere that would work for you?  Make the pattern yourself.

I'm going to walk you through the steps to making a bag pattern all the way through the actual finished bag.  There will be a new post in the series every Friday until we're done.  It should be three to four posts.  My example bag will be a slouch bag for my 15 year old.  (I think my girls are really benefiting from this blog.)

Start with a sketch book.   No fabric.  No pattern paper.   Just your sketch book and a pencil.  Make a quick drawing of what you want.  Just suggestive lines, basic shape, hint at detail.   Now decide how big your bag needs to be.   Is it a shopper?  a small just essentials bag? a medium bag?   What will you use it for?  Write down the answers to these questions.

For the slouch bag, I've decided to make it larger so it's going to be 15" tall by 12" wide.  I want top stitched straps up each side and in the center with a strap that wraps around from the back to close the bag.  The closure will probably be a clip of some kind. I need to look at notions to decide for sure.  The strap will be shorter than the bag to help create the slouch shape.    There will be pockets in the lining, the standard pencil, cell phone, and extra pocket as well as a zippered pocket that will divide the interior in half.  I'm thinking a solid colored bag with a super bright lining like hot pink or lime green. 

Now get out your graph paper.   If you don't have graph paper on hand, you can print your own.  I used a graph paper PDF from a site called Incomptech.  Make a rectangle the size of the outside dimensions of your bag.  Fill it in with a large, detailed sketch.  Do full front and full side sketches as well as a 3/4 view, just like house blueprints. You need to fill in where stitching lines will be and what you want the hardware to be.  Draw in pockets, ruffles, patches, etc.   Color it if it helps you visualize better.   Keep your sketch in proportion.   That's what the graph paper is for.  Use it.

Notice on the front of the bag I've marked that the straps will be 1 1/2" wide and extend the full length of the side of the purse.  I've also shown that I'm considering a 3" clip assembly.  It feels in proportion to me.  I've also marked the top stitching on the straps.  Notice that the bag is a basic rectangle.   I've also noted in the corner that I'm using two squares to equal an inch. 

On the back of the slouch bag I've written down that I want the center strap to be shorter by about 3" to create the slouch shape.  I've marked where the strap should be sewn down to the bag and where it should start hanging free.  You'll also notice that I've drawn in the fact that the handle strap will be attached with D rings.  These little details really help when it's time to start creating the pattern.

When you draw the bottom of your bag you need to decide if you are doing a separate bottom or just extending the fabric for the bottom.  Whichever you choose should fit the style of bag you are making.  Look at manufactured bags online or in person to get a feel of how each type of base works and what it does for a bag.  It's your choice but don't be intimidated by separate bottom pieces.  They are super easy and can really add structure to a bag.   I wrote a quick tutorial on sewing separate bottom pieces in purses if you need a refresher.

For the slouch bag, I wanted to soften the base.  I've planned an oval base that is too small all the way around the bag.  This will create gathering and curve the profile at the bottom of the bag.  I've also included top stitching and purse feet.  (oh purse feet, how I love them.)

On to the lining!  This is where making your own bag gets really, really fun.  Manufacturers do not understand the needs of modern women.  Most bags have a single zipper pocket barely big enough for your once a month emergency supply.  There's nothing in there to separate your keys from your cell phone from your lotion.   I always add pockets.   At the very least there will be two pen pockets, a cell phone pocket, and an extra pocket across one side of the bags I make.  Many bags have more than that.  My daughter's book bag has 15, although that was her choice and I'm still just a teensy bit bitter about it.  15 is a bit excessive. (In age and number of bag pockets.)

For this bag, I'm putting in the pockets along one side and a key clip near the top.  I've even got marked off where the sewing lines will be to separate the pockets.   I've also marked down the finished dimensions of the zipper pocket divider. 



Now you need to decide how many pieces of fabric you need to build the purse.  Does it have a separate bottom and side pieces?  What do these look like? How will you attach your strap?  How long with the strap be?  or are you using a manufactured handle?  How will it close? Zipper? Snap? Clip?

The Slouch bag, as I've noted will have D rings to attach the strap which will be 20-24" long.  I will only use a clip to close it so The Girl can get in and out quickly.  (Which is just an excuse to avoid the zipper issue.)

For the slouch bag we need:
2 large rectangles for the outside
1 oval base
2 straps for the sides (measuring longer so we can attach the D rings)
1 center strap finished measurement about 7 1/2"
1 center strap that will wrap from the bottom back of the bag all the way around to the front
1 handle, 20-24"  (gotta ask the girl what she wants)
3 D rings
1 clip or metal closure of some kind

For the lining:
2 large rectangles
2 zipper pouch pieces
1 pocket piece
1 12" zipper

Next week we'll take all this information and build our pattern.   This is where the graph paper comes in very handy.   You'll want to have pattern tracing fabric on hand.  You can buy either the blank fabric or the fabric with the 1" grid on it.  Which ever works best for you.

So get started sketching and then move on to the next step in Phase Two:  Pattern Construction.
When you've got your pattern you can start Phase Three:  sewing the lining

Easy Flip Case

As promised, a Flip camera case that's easy to sew.  This one you can make in an hour and there's no zippers.  It's just a simple envelope with boxed corners and a flap.  This one is also padded.  The padding isn't going to save your camera if you drop it.  It's just a little extra protection as it's getting knocked around inside your purse.   I'm not sure I'm keeping the flap I have on this one.  I may swap it out for something an inch longer.  That flap just looks skimpy to me.  I'll give the longer measurements for the flap in the directions.

Start by cutting two rectangles 10.25"x3.75".    Cut two small rectangles 4"x2 5/8".   Set a coffee mug upside down on one end and trace it to get the nice curve.   Cut a piece of interfacing for the flap and fuse it to the lining.

Sew the flap together leaving the straight end open.   Clip the curve.

Turn the flap right side out and press.

Fold the large rectangles in half the long way and sew up both sides. 


Fold the outside piece so the seam meets in the center and the bottom makes two points.   Measure one inch across each point and mark that with a pencil.  Notice how the half inch is on the seam and the edge of the measuring tape lines up with the edge of the fabric at zero and 1.  This is how you know the line is straight.   Sew across that line.  Repeat for other point and for the lining piece. 

Now you have two little boxes.  Aren't they cute?   Press them along the sewn point and along the other edges of the box if you wish.  Leave the lining inside out and turn the outside right side out to press.

Turn the lining right side out.   Sew the flap down so the lining faces down and the outside faces up.  It needs to be centered along one side of the top edge. 

Now cut out your foam.  It will be 9.5" long and 3" wide.   You need notches in the center of the long side.  They are 1" long and 1/2" deep and should line up with the bottom of the camera.   Measure and mark carefully.

Now turn the lining inside out again and slip it over the camera.  Fold the foam around the camera and hold the sides together.  Slip the outside, right side out, over the whole assembly.   It will be a snug fit.   Fold down the top edges of the fabric 1/4" on both the lining and the outside.   Hand sew the the outside to the lining.   Attach a snap or button or some sort of closure to the flap and case. 

You're done.  The hand sewing on the top edge is because the foam isn't sewn down anywhere which makes it impossible to keep it in place and turn the case inside out or anything like that.  I constructed it this way to keep from having extra bulky seams.  Since that top edge is barely more than 6" around, I figured it wouldn't be a big deal.  It's not.  It's five minutes of hand sewing.  Easy peasy. 

And that is a camera case a beginner can sew.  Have fun.