Pattern Review: Love Notions North Star

I got to be a pattern tester for another Love Notions pattern.  This time I tested their very first men's pattern, the North Star.

Yup, it's the men's version of the half-zip pullover.  If you bought the Navigator and the Constellation, you can sew a matching set for the whole family now.  They coordinate very nicely and have very similar style lines from version to version.  

I sewed my husband the XXL.  It gives him layering room without the fit being too sloppy.  Check the finished measurements against the recommended size.  You may want more or less ease than the pattern recommends.  For example, I was using a sweater fleece that had a little more stretch than the pattern recommends and I like a little less ease.  I sewed his first one in the XXXL and he was drowning in it.  I had to take in the sides by quite a lot to get the fit right.  The second one I sized down and it was perfect.  

I tested both the hooded and collared version of the jacket.  The hood was a little big on my husband but it fits most pattern testers' models well.  If you're worried you can sew a drawstring channel into the hood.  The pattern recommends top stitching anyway.  Just top stitch 1/2" back and add a small buttonhole or grommet on each side at the bottom of the hood.  Then feed through a yard of twill tape and tie knots in the ends.

The directions are careful and cover all the basics.  There's even a video for the zipper installation if you're worried about that.  

I will say that they are a little over generous with the fabric recommendations.  I got both versions out of less than 2 yards of fabric each.  The pattern recommends 2 1/2 yards for the hooded version and 2 1/4 for the collared.   Just get 2 yards and you'll be fine.  I know it's hard to buy fractions from online retailers, so not having to buy that extra full yard is a big savings.   You will need more if you have to lengthen the pattern.  My layout only gives you about 3" of wiggle room. 

Getting it all under two yards just takes laying out the fabric correctly.  Don't fold selvage ends together like you do for most patterns.  Fold both selvage ends toward the center.  Make sure you fold over the same amount on each side by measuring from the edge of the selvage to the fold.  The amount should measure the same the full length of the fabric.  You fold just enough to fit the pattern pieces, leaving a gap between the selvages.  Measure your pattern pieces and then fold over that amount plus an inch or two.  When doing the hooded version your center hood piece can be cut out of the fabric in the center between the other pattern pieces you've laid on the fold.  It all looks like this:  

That's the back piece, front top, pocket, and pocket lining all lined up on the left.  On the right fold, I have both sleeves and the side hood.  (By the way, if you like having all the pieces laid out completely before you start cutting, you can print an extra sleeve.  You just need two copies of pages 22, 23, 27, 28, 34, and 35.)  You only need to cut one of the center hood piece.  You'll notice mine is up at the top in the middle.   This isn't the only way to lay out the pattern; this method just worked well for me and fit the way the company designed the pieces.  

Overall impressions:

Fit:  loose and boxy.  Made for layering.  I found the sizing to be a little overgenerous in the upper sizes.   It could have been my fabric, but I'll be watching it in the future.  

Difficulty:  Rated as "confident beginner" and it's pretty accurate.  It sews up easily with the zipper and the bias trim being the only things that might make a beginner hesitate.  There's a video for the zipper installation and no one will see if your topstitching on the bias isn't perfect.  Promise. 

Price:  $10.  Fair and in line with most online PDF patterns.  

Will I make it again?  Yup.  I already have the fabric to make my son one as a Christmas present.  He's looking forward to getting it.  

Pocket hack for Vogue 7937

I love Vogue 7937.  It's practically the perfect pencil skirt.  Great lines, well designed, with several options so you can make more than one and still have variety in your wardrobe.

My first V7937 was View b, with the double kick pleat in back and the tab detail at the waist.  I loved the fit and look of it.  It was just missing one thing:  pockets.   So when it came time to make view D (and how could you not have view D in your wardrobe?) I knew I needed to hack some pockets.  Since V7937 is a paneled skirt, it's easy to add an angled pocket.  You can use this method to add a pocket to any paneled front skirt.

I was working with black fabric, so I hope you can see the pictures clearly.

You're going to make four new pattern pieces to create a banded edge, angled pocket like mine.

To start, lay pattern tracing fabric over the front side piece (piece 2 on this pattern.)  Trace your size onto the pattern tracing fabric.

Now do some measuring.  How far down do you want the pocket to start?  How deep do you want the pocket?  For me, I wanted the pocket to start about 5 inches from the waist and to be deep enough to hold my cell phone, about 6.5".

In order to figure out how far down you will start the pocket, subtract 1" from the distance you want the pocket from your waist.  This takes into account the seam allowance at the waist and the top of the pocket, plus the width of the pocket band.  Mark approximately in the center of the pattern piece.

To create the angle, I just held the measuring tape against the pattern until I liked the angle.  The center of the angle is the mark I just made.  

You can make this angle as shallow or as deep as you like.  draw the line on the pattern, but know you won't be cutting here.  Use a dashed line if you wish to show it's not a cut line.

Next add the pocket depth+3/8" to the distance you measured down from the waist.  Measure that from the waist and mark that in a straight line across the pattern.  This is the bottom of your pocket.    You'll cut this piece at that point and keep the top section.  This is your pocket facing piece.

Next trace the original pattern piece again, making sure to trace the full length of the pattern.  Transfer your pocket angle to the new piece. The easiest way to do this is to lay your new piece over the first piece and trace the line. Cut at this line, keeping the bottom of the skirt this time.  This is your skirt piece.

Now lay the two pattern pieces you just created over the top of each other making sure to line up pattern markings (because you were careful to transfer the pattern markings, right?)  Trace the shape of the overlapped sections.  This is your pocket lining.  Don't worry about seam allowances because they are already included.


You should now have three new pattern pieces:  the skirt, the pocket facing, and the pocket lining.  At this point, it's a good idea to line them all up and make sure all the pattern markings line up and your pocket is the depth you wanted it to be.  If anything is off, now is the best time to correct it.

For the last pattern piece,  cut a piece of pattern tracing fabric the width of your pocket angle by 2 1/4" wide.  Make it a generous length.  Mine was a couple of inches longer than it needed to be.  This is good because I needed that to shape the piece to the pattern.   This piece will make your pocket band 3/4" wide.  If you would like yours wider or narrower, adjust your pattern piece accordingly.

Keep in mind, the band is folded in half on the finished skirt so any adjustment you want to make should be multiplied by 2.  For example, say you want a 1/2" band.  This is 1/4" narrower than mine so you would need to make your band piece 1/2" narrower or 1 3/4" to accommodate the change.

1/4" x 2 = 1/2"      2 1/4" - 1/2" = 1 3/4"

Speaking of folding in half, now it's time to shape the ends of your pocket band piece.   Fold it in half lengthwise and lay the folded edge toward the waist, lining up the seam lines on the pocket band and the edge of the pocket on the skirt piece.   You can draw dotted lines for your seam lines if you wish, but this doesn't have to be too exact.  Just try to get the angle on the band piece as close as you can to the pocket angle.

Trace the edge of the skirt onto the pocket band piece as shown in the picture.

Now cut the band piece along those lines while it's still folded.   You should have a piece that looks like this:







Cut the skirt out with your new pieces substituting in for the side front skirt piece included in the pattern.  You need two of each piece.

To construct your new side front, fold the pocket band in half and press.  Baste it to the top of the pocket right sides together with a 3/8" seam allowance.  Make sure the pocket binding will line up correctly when pressed up by lining it up like this:

Notice how the corners hang off the skirt on each end?  you want that.  Line up the edge of the side front with the pocket band about 3/8" down from the cut edge.  The folded edge should be facing the bottom of the skirt.








Now lay the pocket lining over the side front right sides together.   Sew with a 3/8" seam allowance.  Notice how the edge of the pocket lining lines up perfectly with the side front piece.  If yours doesn't, you're probably using the wrong pocket lining piece or have sewn the band to the wrong side of the side front.

Fold the pocket lining to the back and press with the pocket band standing nicely up from the skirt.   I also added a top stitch to help things lay smoothly.

Now lay the side front over the pocket facing and pin it together.  Carefully flip the pieces over so you are looking at the back side of the pieces.  Match the bottom of the pocket facing to the bottom of the pocket lining and sew together.  You should be sewing right sides together.



You now have a fully constructed side front piece.  The back will look like this:
















And the front looks like this:

















Now construct your skirt following the pattern directions.

This is my finished product and I'm very happy with it.  I love having pockets on my skirt and view D is as fabulous as it looks on the pattern envelope.

Good luck with your projects and feel free to ask questions if any part of the process isn't clear.

Pattern Review: Love Notions Constellation Pullover

I had the privilege this last month to be able to pattern test the new Constellation pullover from Love Notions Patterns.  I don't sew for myself very often but I have been wanting to do more.  When the call for testers went out, I jumped on the opportunity.  

The Constellation is the women's version of the Navigator kids pattern.  It hits all the same style lines, with a soft, somewhat boxy shape and a half zip with huge kangaroo pocket across the front.  It's built to be layered so it's sized to be roomy, but not overly baggy.   

I made two, but only did pictures of the second one.  I chose a reversible athletic knit from JoAnn (I keep lusting over the fabric shops online but I never manage to pull the trigger.  I like touching and playing with the fabric before I buy.  Someday I'll actually do it just for the better quality fabric.)  The knit I chose barely fits the 25% stretch recommendation but it worked just fine.  The contrast color added some great style notes to the pattern.  For this one, I did the curved hem with a bound edge.  I also chose to add thumb holes in the cuffs.  Sleeves are always long on me so I left the sleeve length alone and just added the slits in the seam on the cuff so I have the length I need in the sleeve without having to add length to the cuff.  (There's a thumb hole cuff hack on the Love Notions blog.  I used the technique but not the pattern piece.  I don't like my sleeves twisting, so I also lined up the thumb hole with my actual thumb instead of the sleeve seam.  About 1/4 of the way around the sleeve from the seam works pretty well.)  

 I made both the hooded and the collared versions of the pattern.  The collar is a nice length for me and the hood is cozy and well fitted with a pieced shape.  I saw several pattern testers color blocking the hood and using that center piece to add more interest to the jacket.  There are quite a few ways to play with the look through color blocking or changing the details.  I stayed pretty conservative with this one.

Overall impression:

Fit:  loose and boxy.  The sizing is pretty accurate. and there is a full bust adjustment piece already designed if you need it. I made an XL but should have graded up at the hip.  It's still comfortable and I've been wearing it a lot since finished it.

Difficulty:  the company rates it at "confident beginner" and I'd say that's probably on target.  If the zipper scares you, there's a great video tutorial link in the pattern instructions.  For experienced sewers, it's a quick sew with mostly standard construction techniques.

Price:  $10.  Very much in line with other online, independent pattern companies. 

Will I make it again:   Yup.  Already bought the pattern to sew one for a Christmas present.  I'm also looking forward to the men's pattern that should be released before Christmas.

*Photo Credit:  Murphy Brown.  (My youngest kid.  She's awesome.)